When Strangers Destroyed Our Korean Lunch

By Jae-Ha Kim
Substack
May 12, 2023

I still remember this scene from “The Breakfast Club.” As all the kids in detention pull out their bagged lunches, rich girl Claire (played by Molly Ringwald) carefully lays out her bento box, which is filled with sushi.

The other teens stare at her and give her a bit of a hard time. But, because she’s one of the popular kids, it doesn’t go much beyond that.

This film was released in 1985. And, yes, I am old enough to have seen this in the movie theatre.

While sushi is commonplace these days, it’s still not the type of meal most parents pack for their kids — not in the United States, anyhow.

When my son was very young, he was eating some Chinese bao for dinner. The meat-filled bun had just been steamed and was soft and fragrant. He enjoyed his bao so much that he asked if he could take one to lunch at school.

I hesitated.

On the one hand, there was the logistics of keeping the bao warm enough to still be tasty at lunch. But, I was also worried what the other children might say. My mother had sent us to school with sandwiches, just like our classmates. Not because we requested them, but because she wanted us to fit in. And all these decades later, I wanted the same for my child. I didn’t want him to have to deal with teasing from classmates.

Little kids are wonderful, but they can also be brutal to each other.

A few years after this when the weather was nice out, my family was having a little picnic dinner of rice (밥), Korean ribs (갈비) and crisped & roasted seaweed (김). I didn’t bring kimchi (김치) on purpose, because I didn’t want the aroma to attract unwanted attention. Still, a little girl passing by wrinkled up her nose and said, “What is that?!”

She was just a little girl without a filter. So I explained to her what it was and she said, “That’s weird.”

I was about to tell her what was in her hot dog, but decided against it. Instead, I explained, “It’s not weird. It’s just different.”

She repeated her opinion to herself and went about her business.

Many decades ago when I was maybe 6 or 7 years old, my mother and uncle took us kids to Adventureland. At the time, it was the largest amusement park in Illinois. It was quite a treat for us to get to spend the day there. While my uncle took us on the rides, my mother guarded our picnic basket, which she had carefully packed with kimbap — which is standard Korean picnic fare — banchan and bottles of Coca-Cola.

We finally convinced my mother to come on some rides with us. This was America, we told her. Our food would be safe if we just left it at the picnic table. Unconvinced, my mother asked a family if they would watch our basket until we returned in about 15-20 minutes.

“Sure!” they promised. “No problem! Have fun.”

I’m not sure how long they waited before they started picking through our food. But when we returned, there was nothing salvageable to eat. They drank all our sodas and took bites of our food. That they didn’t like our picnic lunch or respect food in general was obvious, because they smashed up everything they hadn’t already tried to show their distaste.

This wasn’t a group of kids. This was a family, with adult parents and children who they likely encouraged to participate in this food carnage.

My mother was shocked. She couldn’t believe that Americans would do such a thing. She was sad not because they didn’t like her food — she didn’t expect Americans to like it — but because they made the choice to waste an obscene amount of food that she had spent a lot of time and money on.

When my mother was a young bride, beggars used to show up at our house in Seoul. She would give them what she could spare, but often it wasn’t much. One day, she gave some old rice to a hungry woman, who gratefully ate it, though the rice was probably spoiled. My sister — who was very young at the time — watched her. The woman, thinking that my sister might be hungry, offered to share the rice my mother had given her.

This starving woman had more decency than these horrible people who clearly had never gone hungry a day in their lives.

I wonder if my mother thought of this as she packed the same school lunches for us that all the other moms of that era made — white bread slathered with butter or Miracle Whip and a few slices of deli meat. I wonder if she missed preparing the rice, vegetables and fish she would make for my siblings when they went to school in Korea.

I would’ve preferred to eat Korean lunches. But as an adult, I understood why my mother never packed kimbap for us to take to school in the U.S.

When I was little, westerners would make comments right in front of me, as if I wouldn’t understand, about all the weird things I must eat. They asked if we didn’t have pets because we ate them. Ha ha.

I remember the comedian Redd Foxx making disparaging remarks about how one of his ex wives — who was Korean American — ate bugs. (It was actually 멸치볶음 — pan-fried anchovies, one of my absolute favorite treats.)

These are the same people who enjoy eating a scoop of beige casserole made from a can of cream of mushroom soup and potato chips. I say this not to make fun of that dish — although it’s one that I don’t personally like — but because what’s odd to one person is something that makes another’s mouth water.

In one of my first jobs as a reporter, I was friendly with a colleague who was part Korean. Sometimes we would sit at her desk and eat some of the treats her mom packed for her. Don’t you know that someone — and before you ask, yes, she was — called security, saying that we were disturbing the newsroom with smelly food. (Mind you — this was in an office where carryout lunches and dinners included Thai, Chinese, Mexican, Japanese and Middle Eastern meals, in addition to the standard soup and salad fare.)

To his credit, the security guard all but rolled his eyes when he heard her complaint. And he gladly accepted some of the Korean snacks we were enjoying.

All these thoughts ran through my head as I looked at my son, who was about six at the time. I was about to pack the bao he asked for his lunch, but then he asked if he could have mac and cheese instead.

Of course. And it doesn’t make me happy to say that I was relieved with his request. But I was. Because some of the microaggressions that we carry from our childhood are things that are difficult to process even as adults.

What I’ve had published this week:

• I profiled Oscar-nominated musician Ian Chang of Son Lux for the Chicago Tribune:

The trio received a scoring nomination – the first band since the Beatles – at this year’s Academy Awards for their work on the Oscar-winning film “Everything Everywhere All At Once.” “The Daniels [Daniel Kwan, Daniel Scheinert] – who wrote and directed the movie – reached out to Son Lux very early on in the process in 2019,” group member Ian Chang said. “At the time, the movie was just a script and it hadn’t been shot or even cast yet. We actually recently found out that we may have been the movie’s first hire! We fell in love with the script and the vision that Daniels had for it and started to dream and put together musical themes and ideas off-picture.”

• And yesterday, my review of SUGA’s solo tour ran in Teen Vogue:

In the final moments of the show, the cameras seem to multiply, his cadence intensifies, the lights flash like paparazzi light bulbs. On the giant screen, surveillance-style footage captures him at a dozen different angles. It’s all fury and flame and breathless swagger; Suga can dance, Agust D prefers to stalk. And the last image we see is Min Yoongi, his retreating back, the house lights already up, a person at the very end of it all.

What I’m currently watching:

Doctor Cha: I am loving this show, which is about a stay-at-home mom in her late 40s who puts her medical degree to work … by returning to work. I am enjoying this thrust of K-dramas where the lead actors are women in their 40s and older. There’s an adoption element in it, which I’m side-eying until I see how it plays out.

• Somebody: It’s a thriller that definitely deserves its MA rating. It’s not one of my favorites, and I am really not into it. But we’ll see how the last couple episodes go.

K-drama I recommend:

Queenmaker: I whipped through that series much too quickly and was so sad when it ended. However, the finale hints that there will be an upcoming second season.

Food-related K-drama:

© 2023 JAE-HA KIM | All Rights Reserved

20 thoughts on “When Strangers Destroyed Our Korean Lunch”

  1. OMG I have so many feelings! Thank you so so much for this! I wish there were open discussions of this exact topic more often. So thank you for this!

  2. This made me both incredibly angry, and incredibly hungry. Now I want to punch someone and eat kimbap. Or a bao. I’ll even take the Mac n cheese at this point.

    I can’t even get past opening the picnic basket… never mind ransacking it when it wasn’t to their liking!

  3. It breaks my heart reading this.
    I remember in 1st grade I had sticky rice w/ black beans and my whole class said I was eating rice with human eyes. On the next day I hid behind a bush to eat my lunch and when I went away for a sec, some kids came and threw away my whole box

  4. I’m sorry this happened. A similar thing happened to my daughter when I packed her Kimbap for a holiday club here in the UK, she got picked on at lunch for her ‘weird’ food. She asked for a ham sandwich the next day.

  5. Listen, I realize it’s tough for you to interact in real life because you’re lacking in self awareness and culture, but this is a cruel thing to say about anyone’s mother. Hiding behind your anonymous troll account on Twitter must make you feel like a BIG MAN. You’re pathetic.

    1. His entire feed is disgusting. He’s a pig who needs to go to the library to read up on history.

  6. “In one of my 1st jobs as a reporter, I was friendly w a colleague who was part Korean. Sometimes…we’d sit at her desk + eat treats her mom packed…someone — and before you ask, yes, she was — called security, saying that we were disturbing the newsroom with smelly food”

    this is from @GoAwayWithJae’s excellent substack – like, these issues seem far from going away. I wouldn’t have dared bring kimchi to Goldman

  7. Do you remember the first episode of Fresh Off the Boat? it dealt with the “smelly Asian food” issue head-on. It was sad because of how real it was. 🙁

    1. Yes, I almost referenced that in my article, but I’ve talked about this before. The mom packing the lunch pi$$ed me off. She wanted the children to fight her battles and insisted they take food she knew would get them bullied. When she served stinky tofu (I think) to her friends, that was fine. An adult can take care of herself with other adults. But kids want to fit in. And sending them with a sandwich doesn’t make them any less Chinese. But it does help them fit in. She didn’t let them have a choice. She just pushed it on them.

  8. Thank you for sharing this essay, Jae. It was so touching and I teared up. Happy Mothers Day to you and your beautiful eomma.

  9. Boba Asian women get especially rankled when they get called out by another Asian woman. When it’s an Asian man they can just dismiss the person as an incel or MRAsian; Asian women are supposed to be a united front of sellouts. Doesn’t get more boba than this

    1. What issue do you have with the publications she writes for? Because they’re Western? lmao Do YOU work solely for Asian companies? I’ll wait.

  10. Loved this essay Jae. Thank you for sharing. I’d like to tell you to ignore all the weirdos who are crying for attention with their three follower accounts, but I can imagine that sharing a story like this and then having disgusting trolls talking out of their ass can’t be pleasant.

  11. You’re off base and have no clue how Twitter works. She has a huge following and she covers everyone’s handles so they have privacy. If she hadn’t, you and your ilk would have been screaming that she was siccing her followers on yeongno. Yeongno has also said she’s an adoptee. She’s talking about a very different experience than the OP.

  12. Another clout chaser trying to latch onto someone who’s actually done something with her life. Yawn.

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