By Jae-Ha Kim
Chicago Sun-Times
October 2, 1994
It’s 10 a.m. Saturday and there’s already a line at Leo’s Lunchroom. But no one seems cranky. Hungry, yes. Crabby, no.
“We come here all the time,” said Stefan Jensen, waiting with his wife and toddler. “We normally don’t make it a habit to go to places where you have to wait to get a table, but this is the one exception. The food is wonderful, the servers are very friendly and the prices are right.”
The price indeed is right – usually in the $4 to $5.50 range and they don’t skimp on portions. A breakfast burrito ($4.25) will comfort your tummy through the afternoon. The potato onion pie ($5.50) is out of this world. And at just $5.50, the chorizo chilliques (Mexican sausage with corn tortillas, eggs, salsa and potatoes) is a steal.
“It’s important to us that people get a good deal here,” said Sheila McCoy, one of the owners of the Wicker Park restaurant. “We treat them how we want to be treated, and it seems to be working for us. Since we bought the place six years ago, we haven’t really been hurting for crowds.”
The patio will be closed soon till next summer, but Leo’s seats 34 inside. Though the place tends to get congested on weekends, the table turnover rate is quick, and the food really is worth the wait.
The patrons all seem to know each other at this cozy restaurant. And even if they don’t, they easily chat with one another and discuss this morning’s specials. Customers are a mixture of Wicker Park residents, starter families and couples who’ve been out clubbing a little too late the night before. This day, a regular announces
without looking at the menu that she’ll have the sweet potato burrito ($5.50).
“I always get it, but I never get sick of it,” said Sandra Hart. “I think I’d stop coming here if the chef stopped making it.”
For those who enjoy a little music to dine by but aren’t thrilled with piano playing or jazz, Leo’s plays good eclectic music, such as US3 and sometimes older Wave music from the ’80s.
“I heard (`Cantaloop’) for sthe first time here while I was waiting for my breakfast burrito,” said Julie Burros. “You can’t ask for much more than that.”
Dinners are nice, too; the menu changes frequently and offers four appetizers and five entrees. Some nights they offer piquant Indian dishes. Other evenings they serve up grilled lamb.
“Places like the Hard Rock Cafe and Planet Hollywood try to create scenes and really don’t,” said Francis Elliott. “But Leo’s is a scene. You always feel like you’re with the in crowd here, because everyone just is treated really well.”
