By Jae-Ha Kim
Chicago Sun-Times
April 14, 2005
Listen up, ladies. Forget the notion that trench coats are nothing more than boring outerwear to protect us from April showers. This year’s trench options aren’t staid. They’re fashion statements.
Burberry’s trench of the season is a gorgeous red and white flower print coat with white leather buttons ($995). Marshall Field’s classy coral house brand evokes images of Jackie O. ($248).
And Isaac Mizrahi’s adorable sunflower print trench in navy for Target’s line is a steal at just $49.99.
The trend this season is fabulous patterns, rich colors and feminine cuts that accentuate a woman’s figure. And the beauty of the trench coat is that besides being functional, it can help hide a multitude of sins.
“A nice trench coat can really tie a look together,” says Marie Claire fashion director Tracy Taylor. “If you’ve just got jeans and a T-shirt on and need to run out real quick to run a few errands, throw a trench coat on, tie the belt and all of the sudden you’re chic. It really helps a woman looked pulled together, even if she’s having a really harried day.”
The ladies trench coat hit its stride in the late 1970s, part of the cookie cutter “dress for success” look, according to fashion trend analyst Tom Julian of Fallon Worldwide. In the 1980s, the trench was replaced by sweeping duster-style coats. By the 1990s, it was all about tech fabrics such as microfiber, and sleek silhouettes.
But over the past few seasons, trench coats have made a comeback in a big way.
“Trenches have been all over the runways for the past few months,” says Julian. “The rebirth of Burberry and the focus on London fashion helped to spur the look and feel. The trench is a classic and fits in with the feminine comeback that is once again cool.”
Like Jackie O. and Audrey Hepburn, model Kate Moss and actress Gwyneth Paltrow are fans of Burberry’s classic trenches. Even trendy stars of the moment like Jessica Simpson and Paris Hilton wouldn’t be caught dead without a trench coat or two in their closets.
“Celebrities definitely follow fashion and they’re wearing what they see is big on the runways,” Taylor says. “Designers have made trench coats really attractive to celebrities and ‘real women’ alike. Sometimes when you’re transitioning between winter and spring, your coat makes you feel a little frumpy. The trench — because it has a belt — helps define a look. I wore one to work today.”
Trenches are so popular that many of the top designers’ best pieces sell out. Fashionistas loved last season’s moderately priced coat by Perry Ellis (about $300) so much there was a waiting list for it. And when Ramosport released a line by E2, with each trench coat marked with a different number, Barneys sold out of the coats, which retailed for about $2,000 each.
“Many specialty stores offer women a trench they can afford,” Julian says. “You can walk into J. Crew, Banana Republic, Club Monaco, Target or just about any department store and find something within your budget.”
Adds Taylor: “It’s a small price to pay for a trench coat. You’ll get so much wear out of it that it’ll more than pay for itself.”
STYLISHLY DONNING THE TRENCH
You’d think it’d be easy to wear a trench coat, right? Just put it on and head out.
Not so fast. We talked with a few experts to find out the best way to work a trench.
Don’t let the belt drag behind you. Tie it behind your back or wrap it around your waist.
“I think the belt looks best tied casually,” says Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s creative director. “Tie your trench without the belt buckle being done up and also without the coat being buttoned” for a chic, carefree look.
If you’ve got an old trench coat that works for you, keep it and wear it in good health. But if you think that taking out the shoulder pads from your ’80s coat is going to update the look, think again. It’ll just make your shoulders look collapsed and give you an all-around frumpy look.
“There are so many alternatives at all price points today,” says Marie Claire fashion director Tracy Taylor. “You don’t have to spend a lot of money to get a really cute coat this season.”
Not sure if you’re better off getting a monochromatic trench coat or one with a kicky, fun pattern? Fashion trend analyst Tom Julian offers these tips.
“I do believe it’s all about a twist on the tailoring — piping, epaulets, capelets, belt details, the pleats,” he says. “If you’re a fan of color, now’s the time to jump in. You can’t go wrong with rainbow brights and traditional patterns (pinstripes, plaids and subtle checks).”
Pinks, yellows and oranges have been front and center in most department and speciality stores over the last few months.
For the fall, be prepared to step the trench up a bit. They’ll be made of more luxe fabrics, incorporate more glitzy details, and be oh-so high style.
